News and reviewsShortlist...
What to look out for
How to check the paperwork? How to check out the car?
Examine all the legal documents and the car's service history, which should be supported by receipts for whatever work has been done. The registration certificate, also known as the V5C, records the name and address of the current and previous keepers, registration, chassis and engine numbers, make, year, model and colour.
- Check for any inconsistencies and a watermark on the document
- Look for a full service history, complete with dated rubber stamps, in the service book (but see the warning, below)
- If the services were carried out at a franchise dealership, ring to check it's genuine
- If the engine is reconditioned, ask for evidence, such as a bill or, preferably, a warranty
The MoT certificate, which must accompany all cars over three years old, shows that the car was roadworthy on the day of the test. Also, check old MOT certificates (if the car is more than four years old) to see if the mileage shown is consistent. The more paperwork, the better.
A stamped service book is good, but receipts for servicing are better. It is not unknown for service books to be faked, so check that the stamps don't all look like they were put there on the same day.
- Does the model badge match the description given in the registration document?
- Are the gaps between one body panel and the next close and even? Is there any evidence of repaired accident damage?
- Do the colour and texture of the paintwork match all over?
- Check under the bonnet and in the boot for signs of body repair
- Check the front end. Too many stone chips in the paint should arouse suspicion unless the mileage is very high.
- Check for rust bubbles, particularly on the sills, wheel arches, seams, door bottoms and suspension mountings
You don't need to be a mechanic to make essential checks. Don't be embarrassed to poke around.
- Look for oil leaks from the engine. Start by looking under the car for tell-tale drips. Use a torch to look under the bonnet at the back of the engine
- Check for damaged hoses and frayed drive belts. These may not be expensive to fix but their condition will tell you plenty about the car has been cared for.
- Before the car is warmed up, look at the coolant in the radiator. A green tinge of anti-freeze is fine, but oily traces, gunk that looks like mayonnaise or a low fluid level suggest leaks or, worse still, a failing cylinder head gasket. This is costly to repair.
- Check the oil when the car is parked on the level and its engine is warmed. Is the oil smooth and clean, or does it contain bits? A foamy look or coloured scum could signal major trouble.
- Check all tyres for tread depth and damage. Do all of the tyres, including the spare, have 1.6mm of tread, the legal minimum?
- Look underneath to see if the exhaust is rusted or shows holes
- Check that all the locks are working and that all rubber seals for the doors and windows are intact
- Make sure the seat belts aren't damaged. Badly worn seats, carpets and pedal rubbers indicate that the car has covered a huge mileage.
- Do the windows work?
- When looking at the odometer, look for evidence of tampering. If it's digital, there may not be any clues. But if it's an old-style mechanical one, check that the numbers line up neatly. If they don't, it may have been fiddled with.
- Check lights, dashboard warning lights and other electrical kit
- If there is a stereo fitted, make sure it works and is included in the sale
There's a lot to remember - so why not take a checklist with you? If any of the above are not in order then negotiate for a discount to cover repairs. If you aren't happy, walk away.
Finally, remember the .dog and its owner. rule. Just as bad dogs and bad owners tend to go together, so do bad sellers and bad cars. If you don't trust the seller, think twice before you buy.
Stolen cars
Half a million cars are stolen every year, and one in every three apparently disappears. Many are back out on the road, being bought and sold. Inadvertently buying a car that is then found to have been stolen is likely to result in you losing all rights to ownership and whatever you paid for it.
Half these cars could be subject to 'ringing'. This is when a car is stolen and its identity is switched with a wrecked but 'honest' car of the same model. These are tricky to spot. It's even possible that the seller has run the car for some time, never realising its crooked past.
To avoid buying one, turn detective. Watch for these danger signs.
Do all the vehicle identification numbers (VINs) stamped into the car's chassis tally with what's on the V5C?
If they do, is the maker's plate (usually under the bonnet, on the panel near the catch) newer than the rest of the car?
Does the model of car you're looking at tally with its description on the V5C? If it has a 1.4-litre engine, but the V5C says it's a 1.6, you should smell a rat.
Is the registration age correct for that model? If it is, say, a 55-reg but you've never seen another like it younger than 53-reg, you're right to be suspicious.
Clocking
It is estimated that one in five used cars is .clocked. . has its mileage reading wound back to boost its second-hand value. This means buyers over-pay for used car to the tune of £2 million a week. No surprise when you think that a typical car's value increases by £30 for every 1000 miles knocked off.
If the car has a digital speedo, only an expert can tell if it has been altered.
Cars advertised with motors.co.uk undergo a basic history check as they are listed. But, for maximum peace of mind, it is also worth obtaining a full report from Experian. It will tell you whether the car has been reported as stolen, whether there is outstanding finance on it (in which case it does not belong to the seller in the first place) and it may be able to confirm the mileage.
Share this article: What is this?