Before you buy: 20 questions you simply must ask

30/07/08

Use this guide and make sure you don't miss something vital when you get your next car

Buying a car is exciting – and a stress. There are many things to think about at once. And all you want to do is get in and drive. Then again, you don’t want to be worrying on the journey home about the things you don’t ask about.

Don’t catch yourself out. At Motors.co.uk, we’re here with the 20 questions you must askbefore buying. Take this list with you when go shopping for a car and tick 'em off.

1. Can I get a discount on the price? Usually. Whether buying a new car or a second-hand one, sellers will accept less than the advertised price. This dsn’t apply if there’s a waiting list for a new car, or it’s a rare second-hand car that’s in big demand. Some car supermarkets, too, operate a no-haggle, fixed-price policy. Research online to see how much you’d pay elsewhere and begin negotiations with a figure in mind. Pitch in with a low bid and expect to accept an offer halfway between your bid and what the buyer wants.

2. How can I check if the asking price is fair? Research. Scan Motors.co.uk to see what similar cars sell for. If it turns out that the price is too high, print copies of online ads and show them to the buyer. Ask him or her to reduce the price.

3. Can I ensure that the second-hand car that I want isn’t stolen or hasn’t been rebuilt after a serious crash? Cars advertised on Motors.co.uk first undergo a basic check to ensure that they haven’t been stolen or crashed. For details of this service, click here. If you wish to buy a full history check, follow the links from that page.

4. Supposing I need a loan? There's much talk of the credit crunch. But if you're in a steady job and own a property, dealers can still fix you up with a loan. Many are skilled in arranging car finance and, if you are credit-worthy, they can arrange loans at rates to rival the banks. Do also shop around: try your own bank, insurance company or even your supermarket and compare quotes. Remember that the annual percentage rate (APR) is the figure to watch: and the lower, the better.

5. Is paying cash best? If you’ve got the money sitting around, it’s (generally) better to spend it than to borrow what you’d need. Don’t march into a dealer’s with a bundle of notes, though. Most limit the amount of cash they’ll accept because of bank regulations to combat money-laundering. A banker’s draft or CHAPs payment is wiser.

6. What extras should I order with my new car? Whichever you like and can afford. It’s best not to go crazy, though, because whatever you spend now will be lost when you come to trade your car when it’s second-hand. A ‘loaded’ car is often worth little more than a basic model.

7. Will my choice of paint colour affect my car’s resale value second-hand? Yes. Silver or metallic grey remain safe bets to sell easily and for a good price. Mid-blue and metallic red are good choices, too. Black works well on some sports models. Non-metallic red, blue and green could make your car worth a lower price when you come to sell it. White used to be the worst colour for a second-hand car. It’s now back in fashion for new cars – but don’t expect its popularity to last until you need to sell yours.

8. How will I know if my new car will be delivered on time? You don’t. But a good dealer won’t make a promise that he or she can’t keep. They should give you a good idea of when it should arrive and should also keep you informed as you wait for it to show up. If it’s later than expected, there’s little you can do.

9. What happens if I choose a car and leave a deposit, but then change my mind? The seller can’t force you to go ahead with the deal. But they are owed compensation for the time and effort they’ve put into the sale. So they may keep some, or all of your money. If you think that’s unfair, you could sue them. But the rule is: if you aren’t sure that you want it, don’t promise to buy it.

10. How much will I need to spend on fuel? If it’s a current model, the mpg (miles per gallon) will be quoted in the brochure and on the maker’s web site. Look for the combined cycle figure: this is closest to how your intended buy will perform. Work out how far you drive in a typical week and divide this by the mpg. You know how many gallons you’ll need. Take the pump price locally, multiply by 4.546 and you have the cost per gallon. Multiply that by the number of gallons you’ll use and you’ve your weekly bill.

11. Can I afford the insurance? Currently, cars are rated in 20 groups. Group one will be a cheap, low-powered city car, group 20 will be a Ferrari. Check which the car you want belongs to by clicking here.  Note that from December 2009, the system will expand to 50 groups, and then all ratings will change. Once you know your rating, get a quote using Motors.co.uk’s insurance service.

12. How much will it cost to service? If your car will be new, ask at the dealership you’re buying from. Then, if there are other dealers nearby, compare rates. Also check local garages, particularly those specialising in your car. More and more makes now offer servicing packages, where you pay a fixed amount upfront for up to five years’ scheduled work. These are often excellent value – but check the small print first.

13. How much will the road tax cost? Check which tax band your car sits within (the seller should tell you), then check rates here. 

14. Can I get my car checked for faults by an independent expert? The RAC offers this service, as ds the AA. 

15. How can I check that the car’s registration document and MoT certificate are genuine? Check first that the details quoted tally exactly with the car, paying special attention to the Vehicle Identification Number (VIN). You’ll find this on the car at the base of the windscreen and under the bonnet, usually on the front ‘slam’ panel. Check also that the number of previous owners listed on the registration document square with what you’ve been told about the car. To check for a forgery, for the registration document (V5C), call the DVLA hotline on 0870 241 1878. For MoTs, click here.

16. What will my car be worth in three years’ time? If you’re buying new, your car will lose value relatively quickly early on. In-demand cars, such as Mini Coopers, retain more of their value over time than older and less popular models will. The quickest and best way to get an idea is to look at used examples of the car you are interested in. Go to Motors.co.uk and browse.

17. How can I check that the service history is genuine? Call the dealer whose stamp appears on the last service. Explain why you’re ringing and ask the service department to confirm that the work was done.

18. Will it tow my caravan? To find out, click here.

19. Will it fit in my garage, or through the gates to my drive? To find out, take a tape measure, or bring it home during the test drive. Unless it is shorter and narrower than your existing car, don’t guess, or hope for the best.

20. What guarantee comes with the car? The seven-year, bumper-to-bumper, manufacturer-backed warranty given on some new Kia cars is the best you can get. You’ll get similar cover, but for five years, on any Hyundai and also Fiat’s Bravo. Pretty much every other make offers three years’ cover from new. Second-hand, you’ll usually get a year’s cover; less if the car is older. Check what’s offered before you buy and consider purchasing extra cover.